Welcoming a new puppy into your home is a heartwarming experience, but it’s not without its challenges. One common struggle many puppy owners face is dealing with nighttime crying. Fortunately, there are effective strategies to help your new furry friend settle into their new environment and sleep peacefully through the night. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll provide valuable insights and actionable tips on how to stop a new puppy from crying at night.

How do I get my new puppy to stop whining?

Puppies use whining as a way to communicate their needs and feelings. To address this behavior, consider the following techniques:

1. Create a Cozy Sleeping Space: Designate a quiet, comfortable sleeping area for your puppy. Use a crate or a soft bed to provide a sense of security.

2. Introduce a Bedtime Routine: Establish a consistent routine before bedtime. Engage in calming activities such as gentle play, a short walk, and a bathroom break.

3. Gradual Separation Training: Help your puppy get accustomed to spending time alone by gradually increasing the time you’re apart during the day. This minimizes separation anxiety at night.

4. Provide Comforting Items: Place a warm water bottle wrapped in a blanket or a soft toy in their sleeping area. This simulates the warmth and presence of their littermates, soothing their anxiety.

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How long does it take for a new puppy to stop crying?

The duration it takes for a new puppy to stop crying varies widely based on factors like breed, age, and individual temperament. Some puppies adjust within a few nights, while others may take a few weeks. Consistency in your approach, patience, and understanding are crucial during this transition.

Should you ignore a crying puppy?

Ignoring a crying puppy might seem challenging, but it can be an effective strategy to teach them self-soothing skills:

1. Rule Out Basic Needs: Ensure your puppy’s needs are met before attempting to ignore their cries. They might be hungry, need to eliminate, or be uncomfortable.

2. Use the Gradual Extinction Method: Gradual extinction involves increasing the time between when your puppy starts crying and when you respond. This helps them learn that crying doesn’t result in immediate attention.

3. Remain Consistent: Avoid giving in to your puppy’s cries, as inconsistent responses can reinforce the behavior. Stick to your approach and provide positive reinforcement when they remain calm.

Is it normal for new puppies to cry a lot?

Yes, it’s completely normal for new puppies to cry, especially during their first nights in a new environment. Puppies often miss the comfort of their littermates and might feel anxious in unfamiliar surroundings. As they become more accustomed to their new home and routine, their crying should gradually decrease.

Conclusion

Helping your new puppy adjust to their new surroundings and ensuring restful nights requires patience and dedication. By creating a comfortable sleeping space, introducing a bedtime routine, and employing gradual separation techniques, you can effectively curb your puppy’s nighttime cries. Remember that every puppy is unique, so it’s essential to tailor your approach to their individual needs. With time, love, and consistency, your furry companion will learn to feel safe and secure, allowing both of you to enjoy peaceful nights together.

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Getting Started Training Your Puppy

Getting Started Training Your Puppy

The post Getting Started Training Your Puppy first appeared on Puppy Blog.

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1. Establish a routine for your puppy. This includes feeding times, potty breaks, and learning sessions
2. Socialize your pup early. Introduce them to other dogs and people in a safe, supervised environment.
3. Use positive reinforcement. Offer treats, affection, and verbal rewards when your pup behaves well.
4. Crate train your puppy. This will help them feel secure and make potty training easier.
5. Exercise your puppy often. This will help them stay healthy and tire them out, promoting good behavior.
6. Supervise your puppy at all times. This will help them learn what is acceptable behavior and what isn’t.
7. Teach your puppy basic commands. This will help them feel secure and give you control.
8. Be consistent with discipline. Don’t reward bad behavior or they may learn that it is acceptable.
9. Groom your puppy regularly. This will help them get used to being handled and will help build a bond between you.
10. Provide your puppy with plenty of toys and chews. This will help entertain them and keep them from chewing on inappropriate items.

Taking care of puppies can be a wonderful and rewarding experience. They bring joy and love to their owners and it is important to provide them with the best care possible. Puppies need a lot of attention and love, but also need to be taught proper behavior and obedience. As the owner, it is important to provide them with a safe and comfortable environment, proper nutrition, physical exercise, mental stimulation, and regular veterinary checkups. It’s also important to socialize puppies to ensure they are comfortable around other people, animals, and environments. With the right care, puppies can become happy and healthy members of the family.

The post 10 Tips On Raising Puppies first appeared on Puppy Blog.

Summary:
When you decided to get a dog, I’ll bet you daydreamed about the great times you’d have with your new best friend. However, there are many things that you need to consider in order to keep your pooch happy and healthy. Things that perhaps you’d rather not even think about!

When you decided to get a dog, I’ll bet you daydreamed about the great times you’d have with your new best friend. However, there are many things that you need to consider in order to keep your pooch happy and healthy. Things that perhaps you’d rather not even think about!

When you go to the veterinarian he may ask you to bring along a urine sample from your dog. How do you do this? Your dog surely won’t be able to hit a sample bottle. The easiest way to accomplish this is to tape a polythene container to the end of a yard stick. While your dog is out doing his business, position the container underneath his urine stream. This is easier to do with male dogs than female dogs but you can usually get a sample with one or two tries. Your veterinarian will want as fresh a sample as possible so if you won’t be taking the sample to the vet right away, keep it refrigerated until you bring it in. Your veterinarian will be checking the sample for a variety of things like bacteria and crystals. If bacteria is found it could mean that your dog has a urinary tract infection and will most likely require your dog to be put on a course of antibiotics. Crystals form in the urine whenever minerals bind together, there are several different kinds of crystals and these are most often treated with prescription diets.

If your veterinarian asks for a stool sample it could mean that he suspects that intestinal parasites are bothering your dog. They can get these by eating fecal matter from another affected animal, carcasses, or other unsavory things. You will want to bring in a fresh sample. The doctor will examine it under the microscope and look for telltale eggs of parasites. Commonest parasites are roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, and tapeworms. Several of today?s monthly heartworm medications also protect against roundworms and hookworms. If you live in the country or your dog is outside for much of the day, he may need to be treated with a tapeworm wormer on a quarterly basis. Other diseases like coccidia, can also be seen under the microscope from your dog?s stool sample.

What about anal glands? The anal glands are two small glands located just on the inside of your dog?s anus that secrete a foul smelling liquid. Usually the glands will be emptied when your dog defecates. Unfortunately, in some dogs, the anal glands become impacted and do not empty properly. If your dog is urinating more than usual or licking his hind quarters more often, there may be a problem with his anal glands. In this case it’s important to make an appointment with your veterinarian who will check the anal glands by gloved touch. If the anal glands are full, he will be able to empty them manually. it is possible, however, to learn how to do this yourself at home. Some dogs require their anal glands be manually emptied regularly. Some owners have their dog?s anal glands surgically removed but if you choose to do this, discuss the possible outcomes with your veterinarian as there is often a risk of fecal incontinence if the surgery goes awry.

Occasionally in dogs, dandruff is just dandruff caused by skin allergies, nutritional deficiencies, or improper grooming. Sometimes, however, dandruff can be a sign of a parasite called mange of which there are a few different types:
a) Demodectic Mange is caused by a mite which all dogs have but are rarely adversely affected by it. Sometimes however, there can be an overabundance of these mites which causes skin irritation and hair loss.
b) Sarcoptic Mange (also known as scabies) is caused by another type of mite. A female mite buries herself in the dog?s skin and lays her eggs there. When the eggs hatch, the cycle begins again. This causes severe skin irritation and hair loss in dogs but is easily treatable.
c) Cheyletiella Mange is caused by a large mite that lives on the surface of the dog?s skin. This infestation is also known as ‘walking dandruff’. This type of mange causes minor skin irritation but is easily treatable with topical medication.

So, now you can talk about those unpleasant things! It’s important that you are properly educated and can recognize signs and symptoms so that you keep your dog as healthy as he can be.

The post All The Things You Should Know About Your Dog – But Don’t Want To Talk About! first appeared on Puppy Blog.

To teach your dog tricks even easy ones you need to have some small reward treats, be in a quiet suitable place and keep the training sessions to 10 – 15 minutes or your dog will start to get board, remember when he gets something right lots of praise and a reward treat, just be careful not to get him over excited or he will loose concentration.

Getting your dog to give you his paw, first get your dog to sit, then as you say the word ‘paw’ take your dogs paw in your hand, give the dog a treat, repeat this, after a few times do not take his paw so quickly, say the word, count to one then take it, you should notice he is bringing his paw up as you say the word if he does not go back to saying it at the same time, do it a few more times then slow your response again. After 2 or 3 sessions most dogs pick this one up quite happily.

The high five, like a lot of tricks the high five is a progression of an earlier trick, in this cast the paw trick. Hold a treat in your fingers and raise your hand slightly higher than you would for the paw trick. You dog will think you want to do the paw trick and will reach for the treat with his paw as we taught him earlier, as he reaches up you say “high five” and give him the treat. Once your dog has mastered the paw trick this one should be very easy to learn and with just a few sessions he will be doing it on hand signal rather than voice control.

Getting your dog to jump through a hoop. Before you start this one I would just like to ask you to be a little sensible and not hold the hoop too high as you do not want your dog to hurt himself while doing the trick. Sit your dog on one side of a hoola hoop, get the dogs attention on your hand on the other side of the hoop. Take a treat in your hand and give the dog the command to release him from the sit.

At first they may attempt to go around or under the hoop. If this happens start again. Your dog wants the treat and will soon learn that going around or under does not get it so they will soon start going through it. When he does say “hoopla” and give them the treat. They will soon be jumping through the hoop on the command of “hoopla”. When I started doing this trick I had a medium sized dog (a Labrador) so I started with the hoop 6 inches from the ground and slowly raised it to waist height. If you have a smaller dog you might want to start with the hoop touching the ground so the dog just goes through the hoop and then slowly raise it as they gets used to the trick.

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We all dream of caring for a perfect dog, a puppy who is a good canine citizen or a good dog and is well behaved and can be relied upon at all times. Good dreams do come true if the training is done with full attention and dedication. Remember puppies learn from day one and need to be taught what is right, what is wrong, and proper socialization.

Puppies are like children, they need constant supervision and training. Training a puppy doesn’t need to be full of trials all that you need to remember are a few simple rules:

Watch Your Puppy

1.) Until your puppy learns, you need to watch them at all times. When you can’t, you should to crate them. Create a schedule for your puppy and this will help the puppy settle down quickly. The schedule should include things like hourly bathroom visits, meal times, rest periods, walks, play time, training, and so on. A puppy that has a busy day doesn’t have time to get bored and be naughty.

Get Respect

2.) Teach puppies to respect you. Dogs live in groups and instinctively follow a leader. If you build your leadership without any conditions, training will be easy because the puppy will obey you at all times and not challenge your authority.

Keep Things Positive

3.) Use only positive training methods. Never shout, hit or punish a dog. This is not only cruel but can cause behavioral problems. The use of electric shock, branch collars, sprays, etc. can injure the animal.

No Free Rides

4.) Teach puppies “nothing in life is free.” This is a system that is widely recognized as a useful training tool. If you practice this, the puppy will learn that to get something like love, take a walk, or treat, they must behave well.

No Means No

5.) Teach the meaning of “No,” from day one. Don’t encourage behaviors such as jumping, babbling, tugging, barking, or running out of open gates and doors. Praise good behavior and ignore them or walk away when there is bad behavior. The puppy will learn that if they act unfairly, they will lose their friend / playmate.

Catch Them In The Act

6.) To improve a behavior, you must catch the puppy in action and surprise them by shaking a can filled with rocks. After you do this, make them improve their behavior and immediately offer them treats and praise. The puppy does not remember what happened before so scolding him after an event is of no use.

Positive Name Use

7.) Always call / use their name positively. Never say “Bad Fido,” or “No Fido,” this will cause confusion and the puppy will think that if you call their name then that is something bad. The puppy must associate its name with happy events such as hugs, petting, walks, treats, and the like. If this happens, they will come voluntarily when you call his name.

Schedule

8.) Keep your training schedule short and sweet, say 10 minutes three times a day. Long repetitive lessons can be boring and puppies will lose interest in learning. Make learning fun and use training tricks to teach commands like sit, down, come and so on.

Bonding

9.) Bond with the puppy and both of you will enjoy your lessons. Puppies should expect to spend time with you and not avoid you by running away or hiding. Be sure to socialize the puppy early. Socialization is one of the most important lessons. Puppies must learn to be around other animals, humans, sounds, vehicles, and other activities. So, slowly introduce the puppy when they are little to daily activities and sounds. Take them to the mall / park, introduce them to children and other pets, and make them not afraid of the vacuum and the garden hose.

Learn About Training

10.) Learn all about crate training, rope walking, house breaking, as well as food training. These are “kindergarten” lessons that every puppy must master. Know about all the peculiarities and idiosyncrasies of their breed. This will give you valuable insights on how to train your puppy successfully.

Conclusion

As a pet parent, you have many choices. You can choose to train your own dog or enroll in a professional training school. Even better, if you can, train your puppy yourself! ((Click HERE For a FREE Training Course to get you started) Dog training has many stages: kindergarten, obedience training, doggy sports, shows and conformation. Also other aspects such as dog therapy, hearing dogs, and so on. The level you choose to train your puppy depends on you and your dog’s learning ability.

Thank You

If you liked this post please give me thumbs up, leave me a comment or a vote. Thanks a million for reading my post and I’ll catch you wonderful people later!!

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The post 10 Most Important Tips To Training Your Puppy first appeared on Puppy Blog.

So I suggest in your training, it’s really important if you see a behavior that you don’t like you have two options. Number one, figure out a way to prevent that behavior by managing the environment as you train your dog appropriate behaviors. Or number two, you need to interrupt that behavior as soon as you see it.

So if you see your puppy going to chew on your furniture you need to interrupt your puppy immediately. A lot of people believe that you have to use punishment to interrupt undesirable behavior. But this is really not true. I’ve been training dogs with this method for over 15 years and I’ve never seen any issues arise from this method. And I actually believe it’s a better way of training. The reason I use it because you don’t get any of the side effects that are associated with punishment.

I don’t believe that it’s cruel or inhumane to tell your puppy or your adult dog no when they do certain behaviors you dislike. But I really believe that by using an interrupter that you’ve trained with, like a cue, that tells your dog what to do is a much better way of training because you don’t get the baggage of punishment.

Here’s a list of the different ways that you can interrupt your dog without using physical or psychological intimidation:

1.) Attention noise
2.) Recall
3.) Leave it
4.) Stationing behavior
5.) Drop it
6.) Let’s go
7.) Alternate behavior
8.) Treat lure
9.) Release cue
10.) Move the dog

First you need to set up training sessions to train your dog these behaviors. You might only need one or two depending on your situation. But once you’ve trained your dog the behavior you then need to prove the behavior in proofing sessions. This simply means asking for the behavior in different scenarios and different environments to make sure the dog understands that no matter what situation the same behavior is required.

1.) Attention Noise

Now I’m going to discuss all those different behaviors on the list starting with the attention noise. I think this is the easiest and the quickest interrupter to train. I use it with new rescue dogs and puppies who haven’t had any prior training because it’s quick and easy. Now all you have to do is make a kissy noise and when your dog looks up at you you mark and reinforce your dog for looking at you. Once you’ve trained and proofed that behavior then if your dog is doing something that you don’t really like you can make the kissy noise your dog looks at you to say what?

Then you tell your dog what you do want them to do.And if they don’t know any cues yet you can show your dog. So say if your puppy is chewing on a chair you can make the kissy noise and then show them their ball. Now it’s really important when you’re interrupting behavior that you understand that it’s not the interrupting of the behavior that is important in creating a well-mannered dog. The really important thing is training your dog what you do want them to do. Puppies chew. So if you are simply just trying to punish them for chewing your furniture they’re going to keep wanting to chew. The best solution is training them what to chew on which is their dog toys, their bones, etc.

In this post I’m talking about interrupting behavior. But if the only training that you do with your dog is interrupting them then that’s the only time that you’re giving them attention. So if you were to use punishment and you were telling your dog no every time they touch things, and ignore your dog all the other times, your dog is going to start to want to do undesirable behavior to get your attention. Therefore with this training it’s extremely important to reinforce the behaviors you do want your dog to do like relaxing calmly when you’re ignoring your dog.

2.) Recall

The second interrupter is a recall. Say your dog is at a distance and you need your dog to move away from something. You can teach them to come to you when you call them. When they come to you they are moving away from the thing you wanted them to get away from. The recall response seems to come naturally to some dogs. For others, it’s a hard-won behavior. The good news is it’s not as hard as you might think. It just takes a commitment to regular practice, keeping it fun and happy.

Start by “charging” your “Come” cue. This will be a word that will always mean to your dog: “Absolutely wonderful stuff is about to happen and you better get over here fast or you’re going to miss out!” Say “Come!” in a loud, cheerful voice and feed your dog a very high-value treat – chicken, steak, whatever they think is totally wonderful. Repeat many times, until your dog’s eyes light up when they hear the cue. Always treat your dog or puppy nicely every time they come to you — kind words or a pat on the head are a must because little treats reinforce the good feelings.

Note: If you’ve already taught your dog that “Come!” sometimes means “bad stuff” then you’ve “poisoned” your cue, and you need to pick a different word.

3.) Leave It

The third interrupter that I like to use is the leave it cue. A lot of people ask me what’s the difference between a “kissy” attention noise, a recall and the leave it cue. For me I like to train the dog that leave it means don’t bother that specific thing but you can do anything you want. Leave it is one of the most valuable cues to teach a dog, and one of my favorites to train. Teaching a leave-it command is a practical and potentially lifesaving command that every dog should learn.

It works best to spend about 15 minutes per day in 5 minute sessions working on training your dog “Leave it”. Using small, pea-sized, treats to reward good behavior makes learning happen quickly and without overfeeding. If your dog is not interested in treats, you can substitute playing with him or scratching him where he really enjoys it for a few seconds. Try to tailor your training sessions so that they are easy enough for your dog to earn a reward most of the time. Setting him up for success will avoid frustration for the learner as well as the trainer.

4.) Stationing Behavior

Number four is a stationing behavior. Pick an area, or station, for your dog in each room, preferably a spot that is to the side or in a quiet corner. You can teach your dog to go to his bed or go to a crate or some other location. Then you can use that to interrupt behavior you don’t like for example if your dog is starting to play rough or get too excited. You could say go to their bed and then they could take a break. Then you could release them to play again. Or perhaps you have a guest come over and your dog gets a little bit excited. You can tell your dog to go to their bed and then they can relax. And when they feel more calm then they can interact with the guest again.

5.) Drop It

The drop it cue can come in handy if you have a puppy or a new dog that likes to tug on your clothes or pull on the leash. Or perhaps picks things up like your underwear or things on a walk. It’s easiest to start teaching a puppy “Drop It”. But most every dog can learn this cue if you are patient and consistent. You’ll want to keep your training sessions short and sweet. Practice each day for about five minutes at a time starting with low value items. You’ll need lots of yummy Dog Treats, and of course a dependable dog collar and leash for your dog. With your dog on a leash, give them an item to investigate. Make sure you begin with a low value item to start. If your dog loves socks, start with something a little less exciting like a T-shirt.

Place the object on the floor in front of your dog and allow them to check it out. While they are engaged with the object say your dog’s name and then “Drop It” (or whatever your relinquish cue will be). As soon as your dog looks at you say “Yes!” or indicate with your clicker and give them lots of treats. If your dog has a hard time relinquishing the object, use your leash to gently move them away from the object and then reinforce them. Repeat this exercise several times each day.

When your dog is responding consistently to the “Drop It” cue with low value items, begin challenging them with different objects. You’ll find that your dog will have a harder time with some objects than others. When you identify what objects are of high value to your dog spend lots of time working the relinquish cue. Don’t be afraid to use your leash to move your dog away from the object. But be sure your movements are smooth and gentle and ALWAYS reinforce your dog when they respond correctly.

As your “Drop It” training progresses, practice in different locations. Ideally, you want your dog to be able to drop a chicken bone they find in the alley without hesitation. But remember, this takes lots of practice, so always be patient with your precious pet. With plenty of positive reinforcement, patience and love, your pet will master the “Drop It” cue like a pro. You can tell your dog to drop it and then tell them what you do want them to do.

6.) Let’s Go

Let’s go! This is a cue that means I am moving, move with me. You can use it when your your dog is on a leash. It’s great if you have a reactive dog and you notice that they are getting a little bit worried about something in the environment. You can say let’s go and then move in the opposite direction. It gives your dog the opportunity to know that you’re going to be moving. That’s better than just startling them by pulling on their leash to go in the other direction. Another great use for let’s go is if dogs are meeting on a leash and then you see your dog’s getting a little bit too excited. Or perhaps the other dog is getting too excited. You can say let’s go to teach your dog to move away from that other dog.

7.) Alternate Behavior

Number seven is alternate behavior. If you have a dog that is doing a behavior that you don’t like you can cue them to do a behavior that is incompatible with the one that they’re doing. Behaviors that aren’t rewarded in some way eventually extinguish. Especially if you make it a point to reinforce an alternative and preferably incompatible behavior.

8.) Treat Lure

Number 8 – Using a treat lure to interrupt behavior. I like to use a treat as a lure to interrupt behavior. Especially in training sessions when I’m training behaviors. For example a down stay. Lets say that the dog was in a down stay and I raised criteria too quickly (walked too far away) and the dog doesn’t understand that to get the treat they need to stay. If the dog was to get up and follow me I could quickly get a treat and lure the dog back into the position (lure them into the down stay) with the treat.

I would not give them the treat because I don’t want them to learn that getting up immediately gets them the treat. Then I make the criteria a little bit easier than the last trial. Meaning maybe I went 30 feet away before and now I’m just going to go 5 feet away. And then I reinforce the dog for staying in the down position with a treat. From that point I would increase the criteria little by little.

The reason that I like to use this way of interrupting behavior is because if I set the training up to be too hard for the dog why should the dog be the one who gets punished for my crappy training plan. So I say to myself oops I messed up I’m going to reinforce this dog for an easier behavior. And then figure out a way to raise criteria where the dog is understanding what I want every step of the way.

9.) Release Cue

The 9th interrupt is using a release cue to interrupt behavior. I like to use the release cue for a sit stay or down stay for my dogs. I like to use this for dogs who guard space. So for example if a dog guards the couch and the dog has a sit-stay where the owner says sit and then they say release and the dog runs to them happily.

You can use that cue, which has a conditioned emotional response of “yay I love getting up”, for the resource guarder. Say your the dog’s laying on the couch and another dog comes over. Then you see your dog about to guard the couch you can release your dog off the couch by saying “free”. Then when your dog comes to you, if they haven’t guarded yet, you can reinforce them with a treat.

But if they have guarded you could then wait a little bit and use a different behavior that you like. Use something that in the future they’re going to do to reinforce that new behavior instead. You don’t want to always reinforce your dog quickly after you’ve interrupted them from doing a behavior you dislike. The important thing is doing training sessions where you build these cues to be reinforcing for your dog. Then they want to listen to you and they want to be doing these alternate behaviors. Use the cue to interrupt behaviors but don’t give them a treat. Instead give them a treat for an old alternate behavior, that you like, throughout the day.

10.) Move the dog

The final behavior that I’m going to be talking about involves moving your dog when your dog can’t listen to you. Either they’ve not had enough training or they’re too excited or fearful or scared. In that circumstance you need to move them. For example you have a puppy and they’re chewing on a power cord. You make your kissy noise, you try to encourage them to get away from the cord and your dog is not listening to you. Then need to move your dog. You also maybe don’t want them chewing on your really expensive furniture and your puppy’s not listening to you when you tell them to stop. Pick the puppy up and move them away.

Now you don’t need to do this in an intimidating way. The idea is that you don’t want to use intentional physical or psychological intimidation. Now it could be true that you pick your puppy up and they’re like whoa I don’t really like that. Then you say to yourself, “oh no my puppy doesn’t like being picked up”. So instead of just always picking your puppy up and turning being picked up into a punishment you want to spend many sessions training your puppy to like being picked up. Especially if you have little dogs. It’s so convenient to be able to pick up your little dog without them feeling like it’s some type of intimidation game.

Now for bigger dogs. If you have a very large dog and you can’t pick them up you’re going to need to take their collar and move them away from whatever dangerous situation they’re in. Or some behavior that you really don’t want them to learn. For example, putting their paws up on the stove. You want to get them away from that stove as quickly as possible before they get hurt. If they’re not listening to you you are going to take their collar and you’re going to move them off the stove or move them with your hands.

Now the idea is that if you don’t do any training most dogs find physical movement, pushing, shoving, moving them by the collar, really not fun and very punishing. So you have to set up training sessions where your dog understands that these behaviors are cues to mean move with me.

Say you’re walking down the street and you see a bicycle coming and they’re not gonna stop for your dog. You need to move your dog if they’re not listening to you and you. You say “let’s go” you stay calm and your dog doesn’t move you have to move them. So when you pull them on the leash most dogs don’t like it very much. They find it punishing. So what you need to do is set up training sessions where you teach your dog that when they feel pressure on their leash it simply means to turn and come with you. That way when you need to use leash pressure in emergencies the dog understands what you want them to do. And it’s been a reinforced behavior so they don’t find it so averse.

It’s great to use leash pressure with dogs who are fearful or reactive with other dogs. Because sometimes when they alert on the thing that they’re scared of you can prevent them from reacting by saying let’s go and if they’re not listening moving them further away on leash to an area where they can relax.

I hope you found this post helpful and it didn’t put you to sleep like it did my dogs!

The post 10 Ways To Interrupt Undesirable Behavior In Your Puppy or Dog first appeared on Puppy Blog.

Leash Training Your Puppy or Dog

How to get your dog to stop pulling on a leash. So many people struggle with walking their dog, right? I’m going to give you 6 things, 6 very basic small things, that will help any owner and any dog master this very easily. We’re not going to use any tools no prong collars, no e-collars. This is so very simple that anyone can conquer this very important task.

Getting Out The Door

1.) The first thing you have to conquer is going out the door. Give your puppy plenty of space and don’t ask for anything. All that you need is for them to respect that space. So that means when the door opens they are not to blow through it. They should respect your space and relax and then you can move forward. That is number one! If you come blowing through the door with your dog you fail right there. You’re not ready to move ahead to walking, you have to conquer that first.

Verbal Markers and Release Commands

2.) Now the second thing that you need is a release word or marker. Some people use clickers but I use verbal markers like a lot of people do. So for the people that know nothing about dog training what that means is you either use a clicker or a verbal marker. Some examples of verbal markers are sit, stay, heal, stop. no, etc. You ask your puppy to do something using your verbal marker, they do it and then you follow with the reward.

The release marker is also very important. You won’t believe how many people I work with that don’t have a release command for their dog. It’s very important that your dog knows when they are to be in command. But it’s also important that they know when they don’t have to be in command. Commonly used release words are “okay,” “break,” and “free.”. It makes things very confusing when you don’t have that release command. Use a reward marker and a release command.

Leash Pressure

3.) The next thing we have to talk about is the dog has to understand leash pressure. What I mean by leash pressure is straight line please pressure. Your puppy has to learn how to yield to leash pressure. When I say straight line I mean you put it flat, parallel to the ground,and you apply a little pressure pulling toward you and they move toward you with the pressure. That’s very light pressure moving them. I know that’s very basic and very simple but you’d be amazed on how many people don’t teach leash pressure and the dog has to understand it.

Turnabouts

4.) Number four is turnabouts or 180’s. What that means is if your dog is on your left, which they’re going to be, you are going to turn 180 degrees away from the dog. So you are going turn to the right and go the other way. One of two things are going to happen. Either your dog is going keep going and when they get to the end of the leash they will feel the tension and turn and catch up to you. That’s a good thing, that’s what we want.

The other thing that may happen is the social pressure of staying with you will cause them to turn around. Just practice turning walking up and down the street. Turn in a 180 degrees away from the dog get them to follow you whether it’s the leash helping or them seeing your body going the other way and they just follow. Both are very beneficial!

Follow The Left Leg

5.) Next we have to teach the dog to follow the left leg. We want them along the left leg and only moving when the left leg moves. The easiest way to do that is to break it down into little baby steps. In order to show them what we mean by sticking by the left leg you move your right leg and you don’t want them moving. You want them moving with your left foot. Step slowly moving your right leg and make sure that your puppy doesn’t move. Now step with your left and have them move with you. Just repeat these slow steps and have your puppy move only when you move your left leg. Continue until they only move with your left leg.

Taking Left Turns

6.) The last thing is very, very effective and I never see anyone do this. It creates incredible results very fast. So a lot of people know that when they practice taking left turns they turn into the dog. The dog is at your left and you make a left turn into them and what happens is you wind up bumping the dog. So this method is a lot better than just making a left turn into them. What you’re going do now is as you are walking turn 180 degrees all the way around like earlier.

But this time not away from the dog but make a left 180 degrees into the dog. But most importantly is you take your right leg and swing it all the way around emphatically. What happens is the dog follows and is gonna stick to the left leg and it starts working on that rear end awareness where they start turning into it. So you are going swing the right leg and have the dog follow the left leg. Practice this over and over and it won’t be long before your dog is turning with with ease.

A Couple Of Tools

The e collar and prong collar. The prong collar works on the concept that evenly applied pressure is gentler and more effective on a dog’s neck than the quick jerk and impact of a choke chain. Also the steady, relentless pressure of a flat collar or muzzling and constant pull of a gentle-leader. The E Collar is a remote dog training system that usually consists of a wireless remote and a wireless receiver. E Collars allow you to remotely send signals to your dog to help them understand “good behavior” and “bad behavior.” If you start yanking the wrong way on a prong collar or you start hitting wrong buttons on the e-collar what you are doing right from the start is creating conflict.

The Prong Collar

Conflict is the biggest enemy in dog training. What a lot of people do is they put the prong collar on the dog the dog falls and they start yanking. That’s not how the prong collar is supposed to be used. And that’s why they’re always in the spotlight as a negative tool. But if you go through these 6 things and the dog understands leash pressure then the prong collar works wonderfully. With that I mean just fantastic it makes it very easy and effortless.

The E Collar

The same thing with the e collar. Don’t put an e collar on a dog if he has to be trained properly with it. How I do it is you go for a walk the dog starts forging and they’re pulling out. By using very little leash pressure just a tap tap on the e collar and the dog will fix themselves. The dog won’t even need leash pressure. If they start pulling ahead of you and they have their e collar on you just tap, tap they are going to fix themselves. It makes it effortless and the structured walk is the most important train training tool we have in dog training. It’s so beneficial and so effective and can create so many well-behaved dogs in the household for anybody. Every person and every dog on the planet should be capable of the most simplest form of dog training and what comes natural to a dog.

Conclusion

So what it does all of this mean? If you can master these things it creates happy owners and it keeps dogs out of shelters.

You have to master the structured walk. The structured walk again is walking at your side, you’re relaxed and there’s no tension. The dog is relaxed and their one job is to follow you. There’s no sniffing, there’s no pain there’s no stopping, there’s no fixating on anything. It’s just a very natural beautiful walk, very therapeutic for both you and your dog.

The release command is so important. Find a spot where you want your dog to be a free dog and let them be. You release your dog and now they know they no longer have to be in command. They can go do all their doggy things like pee on things for example. They can be a dog and that’s very, very important. This kind of simple stuff keeps dogs in the home and out of the shelter’s. It keeps dogs and owners happy. It is the most effective training tool we have and it’s not being utilized. You have got to utilize this piece of advice.

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I hope you enjoyed this puppy leash training post. If you liked this post please give me thumbs up, leave me a comment or a vote. Thanks a million for reading my post and I’ll catch you wonderful people later!!

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How To Teach Your Puppy To Drop Things

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First Week Puppy Training – The 6 Skills To Teach First

The first week home for a new puppy is a very impressionable time. And when puppy training there are a few exercises that you should be doing with your new puppy during their first week home that will really help speed up the learning process. In this post I’m going to teach you six exercises that you can do with your new puppy that will help them become a well-behaved four-legged family member who loves to listen.
Now the first thing you need to keep in mind is that puppies have tiny bellies and they also have really short attention spans. So as you’re working with your puppy for the first couple of weeks, keep those puppy training sessions really short and take advantage of all the natural puppy training opportunities that are presented to you. For us, we’ll often portion out a little bit of the puppies food, whether it’s their breakfast or lunch or dinner or whatever and use that for puppy training. We know that we have a motivated dog to work for food because it’s their feeding time and we’re also not giving our puppy too much food over the course of the day.

1.) Response To Their Name

The first thing I want to talk about in puppy training is the response to their name. Now, before your puppy knows their name, it’s just a word, they’ve never heard it before. So we need to do something to build value on that word. The first thing we’re going to do for the first few repetitions is just say their name then reward them. And it goes a little something like this, I’ll say, Fido, then reward. Fido, then reward. Fido, then reward. Now I’m making it really easy for Fido and I’m building value on that word. But in just a few sessions you’ll be able to make it a little bit more challenging for your puppy.

 

2.) Response To Their Name With Distractions

Now here’s where we’re going to increase the challenge of that response name a little bit for your puppy. I want you to wait for a moment when your puppy’s distracted. This probably won’t take that long because puppies are naturally pretty distracted by all of the things in their environment.

So have a few treats in hand. When your puppy gets distracted, call their name and put a treat on their nose, turn them in toward you and reward when your puppy is facing you. That way they’re gonna start to understand that every time they hear their name they need to turn in toward you. And I’ll show you how it goes, kind of like this. I’ll get her distracted. Fido. I’ll turn her toward me. Yes, good girl. So do that a few times. And I’ll try it again. Hippy. Turn her toward me. Yes, good girl, very nice. Fido. Turn her toward me. Yes, good girl. Fido is starting to understand that every time she hears her name she needs to turn toward me because something good is about to happen.
Now something you need to keep in mind is that when you’ve got your puppy at home avoid using their name all the time unless you’re training this exercise. The last thing you want to do is water down how important that word is.

So we use something like, “Here, pup, pup, pup.” or “Here, here, here.” or something like that until we’re ready to train our puppy’s name and that way that name is always something valuable. Another thing that we like to do for the response to name training is after you’ve had a few successful repetitions of turning your puppy away from a distraction, you and a partner will sit at either end of a hallway and one person will hold the puppy and get them really excited. The other person will have some food and they might use some exciting language to really keep the puppy’s focus and keep their attention. Then they’ll call the puppy’s name and that partner will release the puppy down to them. It really builds motivation and drive for an excited response to their name.

3.) Accustomed to Their Collar

In those first few days of your puppy coming home, make sure you have an opportunity to get them accustomed to their collar. Now, when you pop your puppy’s new collar on for the first couple times, they may itch and scratch at it and it’s just them getting used to it, it’s like you wearing a new pair of glasses or something like that. But it’s going to be important down the road for you to keep your puppy safe, keep your young dog safe.

Make sure that you can have a collar on them safely and you can clip a leash to it. And even more importantly, be able to put on a house line if needed.

4.) Get An Interactive Toy

Puppies explore the world with their mouths, so a great way to engage with them is by using something like an interactive toy. I’ve got a Bungee Tug. The other great thing is for those of you who want to do dog sports in the future or you want your dog to have a great retrieve or a fetch.

Having a toy driving your dog is going to be really important. The other great thing that you can start doing with your puppy is laying the foundation for their “Stop”. By engaging with the toy and then presenting some food, Fido’s gonna start to learn what the stop command means. So let’s get started. With your puppy I want you to get that interactive toy and animate it on the ground.

Make it look really exciting, so that your puppy get gets interested in it. So when your puppy gets a hold of that toy and it seems really excited about it, you’re gonna say, “Stop” and then you can present the food.

We’ll try it one more time to get her even more excited. Ready? Tug, tug, tug, tug, tug. You can see how much she loves playing this game. I’m gonna tell her “Stop” and then present the food. The great part about using these interactive toys is that not only does your dog have fun playing with the toy but they begin to understand that the toy is only fun when they get to play with it with you.

5.) Luring Exercises

Now another exercise to always do with our young puppies are some luring exercises. That’s simply teaching our puppy to follow food. Now following food is going to be really helpful if you want to train your dog to do any tricks or you want to teach your puppy to walk on a loose leash. It’s even helpful for things like the down and sit command. But with our puppies, as they’re eight, nine, 10 weeks old, we’re just going to lure them around a little bit. And when they really commit to that food, we might make it as challenging or as easy as your puppy is capable of following.

We’re just going to lure them around, we’re not gonna give them any commands, we’re not going to ask them to do anything. All they need to do is follow that food. Now if your puppy gets distracted easily or doesn’t like, seems to not be that interested in the food. You might need to reward them a little more frequently or pick a little higher value food reward.

Now don’t make it too tough, you just want to maybe turn your puppy a little bit. Yes, and reward. You might want to… Let’s see if I can get Hippy Shake to just move around. She went into a down position. I can, yes, reward her. We’re not really looking for anything specific but we definitely want our puppies to follow this food. Okay, these luring exercises are really going to help you down the road with some of your obedience training.

6.) A Positive Association With Their Crate

Now we often talk about the value of a crate when you’re training a puppy.  Whether you’re using it as a safe place for your puppy for when you aren’t able to supervise them. Or you’re using it as a limited space area so that you can speed up their potty training. The crate is a really useful tool. Now, something we need to do with our puppies is have them build a positive association with that crate. And a great way to do that is by feeding your puppy each of their meals inside the crate. So I’m just gonna tell Hippy Shake, “Okay” and then I’m gonna put her dinner inside here.

So by doing these exercises in the first few weeks that you bring your puppy home, you’re really starting to lay the foundation of learning for your puppy. You’re also beginning to understand how they like to learn. This can be a really helpful tool when you’re training them.

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