A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct! But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently. – Different aggression types – There are several different types of canine aggression.

The two most common ones are: – Aggression towards strangers – Aggression towards family members You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right? Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment. – Aggression towards strangers – What is it? It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.) Why does it happen? There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation? What can I do about it? The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals. How does socialization prevent stranger aggression? When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in. The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers – he’ll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers? Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!). In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on. Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves. This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand). Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments. Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually. – Aggression towards family members – There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family: – He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you). This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself. – He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family. What’s resource guarding? Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs.

The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him. All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys. Why does it happen? It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc). To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well. This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively. Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!) Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources. To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say. So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.

You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour. – If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer. – Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively – Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day). Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled? All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them. Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail.

This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers. Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles. Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed? In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept. Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat. For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm. The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats. Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals. Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!).

As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!) For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch. It’s a complete owner’s guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog, and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership. To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look. You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link below:http://dog-training-online-now.info

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Jumping up is one of the most frequent grievances Jack Russell keepers have about their pets. Mainly because Jack Russells are small, energetic and have strong legs, they’re vulnerable to jumping all over folks. Irrespective of their small size, JRTs are strong small dogs and they can pack plenty of pressure into a jump. This may also be a problem if your canine likes to get his feet grubby and go jumping all over your guest. So on this article, I’m going to explain some ideas and strategies to prevent a Jack Russell from jumping up. A fine dog training plan is necessary to make your jack russell properly behaved.

Preventing Jumping Up

Now, let’s quickly mention the matter of prevention. In Jack Russell training, it’s often better to avoid a problem from building or being more serious than to try to repair it once it gets to be out of hand. Bad habits in the canine can be difficult to correct. So, in the event the problem is recently developing, nip it inside the bud before it gets out of hand.

Lower Your body

The initial tip is to come down to your dog’s level when you greet him. Kneel down anytime you meet your puppy right after returning home. This prevents any need for your canine to jump up to get close to you.

The Off Command

However, you may discover that even when you kneel down, the dog will still refer to putting his paws on you, even though he just isn’t jumping. In this case you can train the Off command.

Teaching the Off command is easy. Here’s how you do it:

1. Kneel right down to meet the puppy.

2. Have a tasty goody equipped to reward the puppy.

3. When he paws at you, say the word “Off” in a apparent, authoritative tone.

4. When his paws naturally touch the floor, reward him using the treat and commend him with words.

Initially, the canine won’t completely grasp the link in between the word and then the activity of moving away from you. But once you do this repeateadly workout time after time, the canine will determine that everytime he stops leaping up, he gets a food reward.

Attention Searching

Never ever give your Jack Russell interest whenever he jumps high on you. Attention just reinforces the conduct and conveys him it really is something he must do much more – that’s the opposite of what we’re seeking to gain. So, as a way to make him jump up less, it makes sense that we must dismiss the habits as much as possible. Take out the reward (your focus) and then the puppy will spot much less advantage in jumping up. This is a straightforward way of employing the dog’s all-natural wishes and instincts to build the habits you desire.

Always attempt to determine what the dog needs when you happen to be making an attempt to improve behavior problem. Jack Russells really don’t react nicely to being pushed to change – they’re strong-willed and independent, so strong-arm tactics will commonly generate a lot more opposition. It really is much simpler to uncover just what the canine wants and employ his very own wishes as being a motivator for good habits.

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When it comes to medical conditions in dogs, prevention is always better than cure. Conditions such as stroke can have an adverse affect on the brain and the dog’s overall functionality. A well informed dog owner is able to best care for their dog before, during, and after a medical incident. They may prevent the condition from even occurring in the first place if they have adequate knowledge. This is why it is important that the pet’s owner understands just what stroke is, how it can affect their pet, the signs and symptoms of the condition, as well as how to prevent stroke from occurring in their dog.

What is Stroke in Dogs?

Dog stroke occurs when the blood flow to the brain of the dog is hindered by an arterial blockage or when a clot forms in the dog and prevents blood from flowing to the brain. Blood carries vital oxygen and nutrients to the dog’s brain, so when the flow is poor or it has stopped this can result in the dog experiencing some form of temporary or permanent brain damage.

A dog with brain damage will then have reduced motor skills. The dog may find it difficult to walk, wag its tail, run, jump, fetch a ball, or even bark. Basically, any form of movement that the dog carried out before having a stroke may be reduced after the stroke has occurred.

How Does Stroke Effect Dogs Long-term?

When a dog has a stroke it usually suffers from some form of brain damage. This may be either short or long term and can vary in severity. The reality is that once a dog has suffered from a stroke then there is no way to reverse the damage that has been done. This is why prevention is better than cure.

Yes, the dog may regain some of its motor function after having suffered a stroke. But the likelihood of them regaining all of their skills and being the same as they were before the stroke occurred is highly unlikely. However this does not mean a dog that has suffered from a stroke cannot live a happy and fulfilling life.

Signs and Symptoms of Stroke

When a dog has a stroke it can appear to be lethargic, confused and depressed. The dog may turn its head the wrong way when called, tilt its head, or even lose its balance. In extreme cases, dogs may even move in circular motion, lose bowel and bladder control, and have seizures.

If the pet owner notices any of these signs it is vital that they take their dog to the vet and immediately seek assistance, as stroke can be fatal.

Dog Stroke Prevention

The best way to prevent stroke is to make sure that the dog leads a happy, healthy life. Regular exercise and a nutritional diet that is balanced will help to ensure this. In addition, it is recommended that the pet owner give their dog a natural product that increases the blood flow in the dog’s body and is known to reduce artery blockages and vessel obstructions. A safe alternative to aspirin is suggested (dog health professionals often recommend Petsprin), which contains nattokinase, an enzyme that contains anti-clotting properties.

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Problems along with inappropriate urination are probably the most commonly experienced by puppy owners. As a good matter of fact, inappropriate urination and additionally defecation could be the most typically cited reason that managers surrender their animals to shelters.

Before you address disorders of inappropriate urination, you have to understand the cornerstone of the problem. There are several reasons why dogs get rid of excess control of their bladders, and you must know the root cause within the problem before it is typically properly dealt with.

Problem #1 — Excitement Urination Pups often urinate when they become extremely excited, and dogs that will be otherwise perfectly housebroken many times show their excitement simply by dribbling urine when greeting people excitedly. It happens to be normal for many dogs so that you can urinate should they get psyched, and this can be a particular problem for many people older pet dogs.

A great deal of excitement induced urination develops in pups, and it’s the result of lack associated with bladder restrain. The puppy might not even know he or she is urinating, and punishment only will confuse your ex. Becoming angry together with the puppy will quickly cause enjoyment urination to morph into submissive urination, thus compounding the matter. As that puppy ages and acquires better bladder restrain, this variety of excitement urination must disappear.

The very best cure meant for excitement urination is usually prevention. Preventing your canine from getting over ecstatic is the easiest method to control this disorder behavior. If your dog is normally excited with a particular obama’s stimulus or condition, it is really important to consistently expose him to the next situation right up until it not anymore causes intense excitement.

Problem #2 — Submissive Urination Submissive urination can be described as natural an important part of pack habits among critters like pet dogs and baby wolves. The submissive person in the pack shows his submissiveness by lowering itself and urinating. Considering dogs are pack pets, they may possibly show their particular submissiveness to the owner, who these people regard being the pack chief, by demonstrating this submissive urination.

Dogs who exhibit submissive urination are frequently showing their insecurity. Unsocial zed and previously abused dogs typically exhibit submissive urination. These dogs has to be shown there presently exists more appropriate strategies to express their submissive position, such when shaking hands or licking the owner’s palm.

The fastest way to get over submissive urination problems is normally to ignore the urination. Seeking to reassure your canine can give the mistaken impression that you approve for the behavior, while scolding your dog can help make the submissive urination worse yet.

Correcting difficulty with submissive urination has to be directed from building your dog’s self esteem and teaching him other ways to demonstrate his respect. Teaching your dog to move his paw, sit upon command, and similar obedience commands, is a powerful way to direct the dog’s respect in the more suitable direction.

Problems by using urination will not be always easy to get over, but it is important to be continual, and to always incentive acceptable behavior for the pet. When urination complications do show up, it is usually best if you first rule out any medical conditions which is causing people problems. Medical problems like bladder infections could possibly be root reason for problems using unwanted urination.

After any medical problems have been completely ruled out and about, it is extremely important to determine why you have the trouble, and treat it appropriately. While it usually is tempting to help punish pet for inappropriate elimination, this will solely confuse and additional intimidate her.

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